Lodging

Polynesian-style bungalow at Hotel Molokai.

Okay, so my “best hotel” on the delightfully unspoiled island of Molokai is also the only hotel. Yep, Molokai is that sparsely populated and it’s one of the least touristy islands of Hawaii.

That’s not to say I wouldn’t heartily recommend a vacation on Molokai! The Hawaii marketing folks tend to say it’s “like the rest of Hawaii was 50 years ago,” and after having visited the small island earlier this year, I absolutely agree. The retro store signs in downtown Kaunaukakai, the vast expanse of undeveloped ranchland, and the ultra-friendly residents make it one of the most unusual and welcoming islands in Hawaii, for sure.

But don’t book a trip to Molokai – and a stay at the Hotel Molokai – unless you’re cool with rustic. If you need to be entertained with extravagant luaus, tons of shopping opportunities, giant aquariums or other major attractions, look at the bigger Hawaiian islands, like Oahu or Maui. On the other hand, if you want to get back to nature, get to know “authentic Hawaii,” and simply want to kick back and relax, Molokai is for you.

Hotel Molokai is on the water, but has no beach.

While there are some condominiums for rent on the island, since the Molokai Ranch closed its doors this spring, the Hotel Molokai is the only game in town. And it is located on the outskirts of Kanaukakai, the main town on the island, within easy driving distance of some quaint downtown shops and a few restaurants.

The Hotel Moloakai property is reminiscent of a Polynesian-style village, with free-standing, trapezoid-shaped bungalows. Its right on the water, but has no beach. There is a pool that closes late afternoon, since the pool area is also used as an entertainment venue for nightly free live music.

The hotel’s Hula Shores restaurant is definitely the place to be in the evenings. Locals and visitors alike gather around the U-shaped bar. When I parked myself on a barstool one night, I was chatting it up with residents within minutes. Truly, these folks are friendly. (Maybe they were just happy for new blood; the population on the island is only about 8,000.)

Small guest room with gabled ceiling.

My standard, ground-floor guest room at Hotel Molokai was small, but plenty comfortable. The bathroom was extra tiny, and I could barely close the door without scraping the toilet. Rooms were refurbished less than a year ago, so I appreciated the new furniture and bedding. There’s no air-conditioning, but I didn’t need it in early June (a fan is provided). Many rooms have full kitchens, which makes storing breakfast foods, snacks and beverages ultra convenient (a nice money-saving amenity).

New on site is a full-service spa, which was, unfortunately, being fumigated for termites (!) while I was there, so I couldn’t sample any massages. I guess with these wooden structures, pests like termites aren’t that unusual.

Garden-view room rates start at $159/night.

Photos by Kara Williams, taken June 2008.